Kalamkari derives its name from the word kalam, meaning a pen or brush, and kari, meaning craftsmanship, and traditionally referred to cotton fabrics on which patterns were hand painted with natural dyes. These fabrics were created primarily in Andhra Pradesh and Gujarat, and were traded internationally, especially in exchange for spices in Southeast Asia, where they were used in rituals.

The process of creating a kalamkari is a lengthy one, involving more than 20 sequential steps including dyeing, bleaching, painting, and printing. In painted kalamkari, the design is first outlined in black with a charcoal stick, and then filled in with earthy colours. In the Machilipatnam style, the patterns are printed using hand-carved blocks and intricate details are painted by hand, often using a fine tamarind pen.

Kalamkari often depict stories derived from the Ramayana and Mahabharata, such as those created by the craftsmen of Srikalahasti – a holy town in the Chittoor district of Andhra Pradesh – as well as mythological scenes and motifs inspired by nature, including flowers, peacocks, and the Tree of Life.